Union Dining, Richmond

Ready, set, eat! Give your tastebuds a workout in Melbourne’s newest restaurants.
she like it?” asks celebrity chef and restaurateur George Calombaris as
he hovers at our table with hands clasped, face concerned.

food critic puckers her lips and spits the spoon out, clean. Yes,
George. The 10-month-old baby does like your strained pumpkin. The baby
is happy. And George is happy, too.

“My mama is Greek. My baba is
Italian. This is my food,” reads a large banner in MamaBaba, the newest
addition to the Calombaris empire, which includes The Press Club, St
Katherine’s and the gorgeous Hellenic Republic. This night, MamaBaba is a
sea of South Yarra blondes and more than one instance of leopard print
but all eyes are on the TV star chef, who orchestrates my tortellini
filled with a prawn mousse with prawn saganaki, tomato and feta: a
bargain at $26, considering a $45,000 pasta machine had a hand in its

Calombaris’s restaurant, opened in January, is one of a battalion of
new eating houses to hit Melbourne in the past few months. Last year was
a blockbuster for restaurant openings in the southern city, from big,
brassy numbers (The Atlantic, Crown complex) to the oh-so-Melbourne
phenomenon of a glitzy cocktail bar up the back of what looks like a
trashed laneway (EDV, off Malthouse Lane).

And if all these
newcomers weren’t enough for the hungry hordes, the city is in the midst
of its 20-day food orgy, the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival, where
chefs and winemakers from the world’s top restaurants indulge us: think
great Dane Rene Redzepi from Copenhagen’s NOMA, currently the world’s
top restaurant, or Spanish indigenous wine varietals champion Telmo

Eating there
Bistro Gitan, mains from $29, 52 Toorak Rd West, South Yarra, (03) 9867 5853, bistrogitan.com.au
Chin Chin, mains $17-$33, 125 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, (03) 8663 2000, chinchinrestaurant.com.au
MamaBaba, mains $19-$33, 21 Daly St, South Yarra, (03) 9207 7421, mamababa.com.au
Middle Fish, breakfast from $13.50, 122-128 Berkeley St, Carlton, (03) 9348 1704
Union Dining, Sunday lunch $55pp plus wine, 270 Swan St, Richmond, (03) 9428 2988, uniondining.com.au

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