Townsville airport is full of huge men with huge arms cloaked in huge tatts.

Some are drinking stubbies of Bundy rum and coke, and it’s just gone 9.30am. The departures board is full of places you don’t really slap on your holiday list: Cloncurry, Mount Isa, and lots of private mines. There’s a huge ad on the wall declaring “You don’t need to dig deep to find the perfect job”: the mining industry is doing well here.

Our destination couldn’t be further from a coal-cut mine. We’re just waiting for the seaplane to finish refuelling and we’re off to Orpheus Island. Let’s go!