I’m a journalist, travel writer, editor and copywriter based in Melbourne, Australia. I write pacy travel features, edit edifying websites and fashion flamboyant copy. My articles and photographs have appeared in publications worldwide, from inflight to interior design: I’ve visited every continent, and have lived in three. Want to work together? Drop me a line… 

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Pilgrim route at 300km/hour: on the bullet train to Mecca

Once, you had to ride a camel over stony deserts to reach Mecca, the holiest of holy sites in Islam. Today, you can catch a bullet train and be there in couple of hours.

On my last trip to Saudi Arabia, I caught the high-speed train from Madinah to the port city of Jeddah – the train then continues on to Mecca, on a route covered by pilgrims for centuries.

With soaring train terminals designed by architects Foster + Partners, trains built by Spanish manufacturer Talgo and train tracks laid by Chinese companies, Saudi Arabia has tapped into global expertise to create the Haramain High-Speed Railway line.

If you’re reading this, I’m sure you’ve a few questions:

  • No, I didn’t have to cover my hair in Saudi Arabia unless I was entering a mosque. No women have to cover their hair anymore, neither Saudis nor foriegners.
  • Non-Muslims are not allowed to visit the two holiest mosques that bookend this train in Medinah and Mecca; however, you can visit the city of Medinah, but are not permitted to visit the holy city of Mecca.
  • Yes, the whole bullet train experience was incredibly safe, clean and respectful, as I have found all my time spent in the country.
  • And very welcoming of non-Muslims; spot the pic of the cheery female train attendants, who proffered hot coffee and sweet dates to all passengers boarding the train.

I travelled business class, which included a full meal, but the economy section also looked spacious and clean. And it ran like clockwork; no Middle Eastern approach to time (which I admit I do love), we’re talking Swiss-levels of timekeeping here, but with an overlay of classic Arabian hospitality.

I wrote about the train journey for the Sydney Morning Herald and The Age’s Traveller section. To read my review, visit https://www.smh.com.au/traveller/reviews-and-advice/top-speed-300km-h-on-board-the-middle-east-s-first-high-speed-train-20241104-p5knlh.html

Women in Saudi Arabia

Until late 2019, I could not visit Saudi Arabia as a solo, female traveller. Only business visa holders and religious pilgrims could visit Saudi Arabia, and even then, as a woman, I would have needed to be accompanied by a male guardian. Living in Egypt in the late noughties, my father had passed away, I was unmarried and neither of my brothers wanted to visit Saudi Arabia. It remained one of a few countries I had not visited in the Middle East, yet with an all-pervasive influence in the region’s economy, politics and societal expectations, there was a Saudi-sized gap in my understanding of the region.

Then, just before COVID closed the world down, Saudi Arabia threw out its own rule book, and brought in e-visas for independent travellers, issued online and almost on the spot.

I am so proud of this story, published in the Traveller section of the Sydney Morning Herald and The Age (Melbourne) newspapers, about my adventures in the Saudi city of Jeddah and the AlUla oasis, up toward the Jordanian border. To read more about travelling as a woman, and meeting the women of Saudi Arabia, click on the link below.

https://www.traveller.com.au/visiting-saudia-arabia-as-a-woman-i-went-to-the-notoriously-sexist-country-as-a-solo-female-tourist-h24v9q

I’d love to hear your thoughts.

 

Global Salsa

Well, you’ve scrolled this far. What do you think? Drop me a line, I’d love to hear from you.

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