I’m a journalist, travel writer, editor and copywriter based in Melbourne, Australia. I write pacy travel features, edit edifying websites and fashion flamboyant copy. My articles and photographs have appeared in publications worldwide, from inflight to interior design: I’ve visited every continent, and have lived in three. Want to work together? Drop me a line… 

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Vale rock brain Glenn A Baker, and his musical roadtrip through southern USA

Man with hat

Farewell, rock historian, music journalist and travel writer Glenn A. Baker.

Take a musical roadtrip through southern USA with Glenn A Baker, rock historian, eminent music journalist and travel writer.

This week, I’m remembering Glenn A Baker, a friend who was not only a rock historian and eminent music journalist, but an avid traveller who’d visited more than 150 countries, documenting his travels in books and the Australian media.

https://www.theworldawaits.au/podcast/episode/7fd0f320/vale-rock-historian-travel-journalist-glenn-a-baker

An accomplished radio presenter who was instrumental in the creation of radio stations JJ, he also presented Qantas’ inflight music entertainment for three decades. Glenn was also named the BBC’s Rock Brain of the Universe three times in the 1980s, a clear demonstration of his encyclopedic knowledge of music.

I can’t find any photos of us roaring through southern Ireland in a minibus (I was still in my no-photo stage of life) but I remember vividly going to a pub with Glenn one night to watch some trad Irish music. We had a table, watching the fiddles, and a bloke comes up to us and says, in his Australian accent, “Glenn A. Baker, didn’t think this was your scene!” He was just some punter who recognised Glenn, in a bar at a crossroads in Co Clare, so far was Glenn’s fame.

On that same roadtrip, I’d watch him leap from the a moving minibus as we were driving through a village one Sunday afternoon, a local band thrashing it in front of the pub – he was always on the look-out for new sound and talent.

Glenn was also my guest on the travel podcast The World Awaits. For our interview, I asked him to create an itinerary for a musical roadtrip through the USA, a task that he immediately said required at least two episodes to cover. We never did record the second, before he passed away earlier this week.

So I’m resharing his chat about travelling in southern USA, which reflects his deep passion for music, musical history and for the US. You can take a listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify or via our website.

My chat with Priscilla Presley

“Memphis is the centre of it all,” said Glenn, “and the aura – the spectre – of Elvis hangs over Memphis.”

Remember that Elvis cut his first record at Sun Studios, and Glenn talks about visiting Gracelands and seeing Elvis’ plane, the Lisa Marie. He even chatted with Priscilla about living in Gracelands – naturally, as an obsessive record collector, Glenn wanted to know what Elvis’ record collection was like. Priscilla also shared with him how Elvis listened to music, and how he chose new songs – jump onto the podcast to hear what she told him.

Key sites on a musical roadtrip in southern USA

Memphis: one of the key cities on Glenn A Baker's musical roadtrip.

Memphis: one of the key cities on Glenn A Baker’s musical roadtrip. The Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum’s exhibition about the birth of rock and soul music, created by the Smithsonian Institution, tells the story of musical pioneers who, for the love of music, overcame racial and socio-economic barriers to create the music that shook the entire world.

Glenn’s suggested itinerary for a musical roadtrip of southern USA includes the key music cities of Memphis and Nashville in Tennessee, and New Orleans, Louisiana.

Add to that the three possible graves of Robert Johnson, the first great blues recording artist, famous for his song Crossroads, recorded in San Antonio, Texas in 1936. Famously, in the song Johnson sells his soul to the devil in exchange for fame. (If you’d like to read more about this story of fame bought, click here

Then, you could slip in Montgomery, Alabama, the birthplace of country singer Hank Williams, and the famous Tallahatchie Bridge from Bobbie Gentry’s song “Ode to Billie Joe,” is located near Greenwood and Money, Mississippi. He’d pass through Ferriday, Louisiana, where Gerry Lee Lewis was born, and went on to become “a very, very wild man,” and Vicksburg, Mississippi, home of blues songwriter and musician Willie Dixon.

For us, the iconic music journalist designed a custom soundtrack and playlist/mixtape alongside a guided itinerary of southern blues, soul, and R&B landmarks, which I’m sharing below.

His interview demonstrated an intersection of Glenn’s deep knowledge and love for music and travel; the Australian music industry has lost one of its greatest advocates.

The World Awaits sends our condolences to his family and close friends, including many in our extended travel writing community.

You can listen to Glenn’s interview on Apple Podcasts, Spotify or via The World Awaits website.

Glenn’s mixtape for a musical roadtrip through southern USA includes:

When a Man Loves a Woman, Percy Sledge
Wild Horses, Rolling Stones
The American Trilogy, Elvis
Proud Mary, Creedence Clearwater Revival
Sweet Home Alabama, Lynyrd Skynyrd
Knock on Wood, Eddie Floyd
Crossroads, Robert Johnson
(Sittin’ on) The Dock of the Bay, Otis Redding
Green Onions Booker T & the MGs
Rainbow Connection, Jim Henderson
Last Man Standing (album), Jerry Lee Lewis

 

FAQS: Best places to visit on a musical roadtrip in southern USA

Who is Australia’s rock music expert?

Glenn A. Baker was Australia’s premier rock historian, as well as a journalist and travel writer. He was the Australian editor of Billboard magazine for more than 20 years and wrote 17 books. He also managed bands including Ol’ 55 and was a keen spotter of new talent. He won the BBC’s Rock Brain of the Universe three times in the 1980s. Throughout his life, he collected around 80,000 vinyl records and CDs.

What are the best places to visit in southern USA for music?

Rock historian Glenn A Baker suggested the key music cities of Memphis and Nashville in Tennessee, and New Orleans, Louisiana, on a musical roadtrip of southern USA. He also includes Montgomery, Alabama, which is the birthplace of country singer Hank Williams, and the famous Tallahatchie Bridge from Bobbie Gentry’s song “Ode to Billie Joe,” which is located near Greenwood and Money, Mississippi.

Would you pay to jump the queues at the airport? | ABC Melbourne Radio

Would you pay to jump the queues at the airport?

That was the question I tusselled with on ABC Melbourne Radio recently with host Charlie Pickering, the new host of the drive-time slot.

Our conversation came out of the news that Sydney Airport has launched its new Fast Track lanes – are they worth the money, or just another airport fundraiser? I have to say, they sound like the queue for those of us who can’t get out of Sydney fast enough. But Melbourne jokes aside…

Take a listen…

I admit that I am notorious for running hard to the wire with flights – so would a $20 fast-track make me arrive even later? Happy to learn that Charlie is in fact in the same boat, a serial last-minute kinda guy. Wait, I’m not saying I hold the plane up; I get there on time, but not for me hours spent hanging around airports, shelling out money on overpriced food that could better be spent at my destination.

We’ve dubbed the Fast Track ‘Business Lite’, for people who don’t want to queue, but can’t afford business class. So they get to feel a little bit elite, at just $20.

However, the real question is: isn’t this fast track at the wrong end of the journey? The queue-jump is available when you’re starting your journey; surely they’d be more useful at the other end, when you’re arriving home shattered after a 14-hour flight from the Middle East? Or imagine you’ve just jumped off a Project Sunrise flight, Qantas’ non-stop London to Sydney flights that have just seen the first planes roll into Melbourne from Toulouse just this week? Those flights are 22 hours long – please somebody, let me jump the queue so I’m not wrangling with the Smart Gates, running the gambit of the duty-free ladies flogging (not very) cheap gin and synthetic perfumes. Cannot. Get. Out. Of. There. Fast. Enough. $20? As the ad goes, shut up and take my money!

I spoke with Melbourne Airport before the interview; they have no intention of introducing Fast Track lanes from international departures, and to be fair, it’s extremely rare that I’ve been caught up in anything more than a 10-minute wait here. And you’re still at the mercy of the person in front of you as they cautiously unthread their belt, unlace their shoes, pull their laptop out, realise they’ve got a half-bottle of water which they’d like to drink…

Similarly at the other end, the great leveller, for everyone from the cheapest budget flight seats to First class, is customs. And in Melbourne, that can be horrific. Because I am – always – the woman who buys the elk sausage. The bag of spices. The biltong. The weird Japanese frozen strawberries… all have to be checked and declared.

Jump on to listen to me and Charlie on 774 MELBOURNE talking Smart Gates, queue jumping, children’s vomit and why customs queues are the great levellers between first and economy-class travel.

Who can use the Fast Track service in Sydney?
All passengers can buy and use the Fast Track service at Sydney Airport’s T1 departures, but it does not include priority security or border processing for departures or transfers.

What other countries have fast-track services?
Plenty of countries have fast track lanes in their airports, including the United Kingdom and Singapore. They are open to frequent flyers and other premium program members. However, many countries include fast-track lanes for free for families with young children, including the Scandinavian countries and most other European countries.

Does Melbourne Airport have Fast Track departures?
No, Melbourne Airport does not have a pay-as-you-go Fast Track lane in its international departures.

Flight review: Melbourne-Jakarta-Tokyo with Garuda Indonesia | Sydney Morning Herald

If you’ve ever tried to find a last-minute ticket to Japan from Australia in sakura (cherry blossom) season, read on. You’ll know direct flights sell out hotter than a plate of piping takoyaki balls, and when you do find a seat, you need to sell a body part to get your backside on that seat for the 10 1/2-hour flight.

Faced with this dilemma recently, and needing to buy two tickets, I took a circuitous route with Garuda Indonesia, the country’s flag carrier. Yes, the flight was longer. Yes, it had a three-hour layover in Jakarta (lovely airport) and back via Denpasar (for all the Bintang singlets, yogawear and seriously overpriced food – however the TUMI shop had some great bargains, if you’re browsing). But for this review for the Traveller section of the Sydney Morning Herald and The Age newspapers, I took away a few very interesting lessons…

Did you know that you can fly Australia-Tokyo, and break your stay in Indonesia, at no charge, for up to a month’s stay? That’s a two-destination holiday, Tokyo and Bali, for the price of one! And if you’ve been watching the travel stats, you’ll know that Japan has recently taken over Indonesia (specifically, Bali) as the most popular international holiday destination for Australians.

I need to point out that Garuda has won Skytrax‘ award for best cabin crew multiple times, which sort of surprised me, but then in the flight, I found the service to absolutely live up to the award, on and off the plane. At one point, my travel companion left a small toiletries bag in her seat when we arrived in Jakarta. We reported it to customer service, who told us to take a seat, and in about 20 minutes, they’d run back to the flight, found the bag and returned it to us with a flourish and lots of smiles.

Also, they made a point of telling me that if you book a ticket with multiple guests on it, you automatically get seated together on the flight. I mean, people, this should not be so shocking, but having been split from my (then) five-year-old child on an international flight, and frequently flying with the (now much larger) child, it is a constant stress for many parents, who are thus forced to pay for seat allocations on top of their air fares. So, hats off to Garuda for maintaining what should be (and used to be) a basic service for passengers.

And final takeaway, the beef rendang served in flight is delicious – in economy. If you are an omnivore, you can’t go wrong with this meal choice.

For the basics: I flew Melbourne (MEL) to Jakarta (CGK) on Flight GA717.

The MEL-CGK flight runs four times weekly on an Airbus A330-300. Don’t expect glamour: it’s teal and chocolate. Need I say more? Ok, I will – the usb chargers are stupefyingly slow (as is the case on many airlines) and the sound didn’t work on the flight of one of my legs (I just plugged into the vacant seat beside me).

I flew Economy, and I’m a window-seat girl, sitting in seat 28A. The flight time is 7 hours 35 minutes from Melbourne to Jakarta, and about the same again on to Tokyo. And yay, I got three seats to myself so I slept all the way from Jakarta to Tokyo, arriving at 6am as fresh as an economy-class flight can ever leave you. It doesn’t beat a direct flight, but sometimes, needs must.

Newspaper clipping

Flight review of Garuda Indonesia by Belinda Jackson

To read the full review, click here.

Disclaimer: my flight was not hosted by Garuda, but was paid for by Cruise Traveller. I paid for my daughter’s seat.

Self-drive safari v luxury game experience: South African safari two ways | Sydney Morning Herald

“Why don’t more Australians do a self-drive safari?” Australian crime novelist @tonyparkauthor had asked me months ago. He lives on the fringes of Kruger where he writes African thrillers, and he threw down the gauntlet.

So I went to find out: luxury or budget self-drive, each has its merits that the other simply cannot replicate.

Today, my cover story for the Traveller section of the Sydney Morning Herald and The Age newspapers shares my discoveries (and that time my heart absolutely stopped) .

You can see my incredible, solo encounter with a pride on Sabie River here on my instagram.

Safari for starters – in the first part of this ‘safari two ways’ story, I was self driving and staying in rest camps in Kruger National Park, with also a stay in an extremely affordable little lodge in Manyeleti Game Reserve, adjacent to the park.

The wildlife was – hand on my heart – absolutely extraordinary. From lions to painted dogs, giraffes aplenty and sweet baby cheetahs. In fact, it was tween season! The absolute highlight has been seeing a white rhino, endangered to the edge of extinction.

The second part of my trip saw days spent blissfully off-grid with excellent, skilled safari guides and trackers in Sabi Sabi, in South Africa’s Greater Kruger. For an unbeatable morning commute, the drive home at the end of the day and my best ever airport transfer (includes zebras) 🦓 There are worse places to hide from the world – currently, I took refuge in Bush Lodge, in Sabi Sabi Game Reserve in the Greater Kruger, South Africa.

My home is the Mandleve villa, a sweet retreat from the madness of the human world.  The animal world, however, is just a step outside – the baboons take free advantage of my pool, and play your cards right, and you get a free nyala visit with every booking.

I’ve fallen into the rhythm of safari – early mornings, day naps, sundowners – adding way too many meal stops with sunrise cuppas to high tea wedged in between.

I also talked about it all on our podcast, The World Awaits – take a listen for more!

Sydney Morning Herald’s Traveller cover story https://www.smh.com.au/traveller/inspiration/budget-or-luxury-two-ways-to-do-a-safari-put-to-the-test-20260528-p601oe.html 

The World Awaits travel podcast https://www.theworldawaits.au/podcast/episode/7be34fdf/ep-143-south-african-safari-by-e-bike-car-in-luxury-fuel-saving-tips-the-death-of-the-working-holiday

My encounter with the Pride of Sabie River, Kruger National Park https://www.instagram.com/global_salsa/reel/DZVw-gHJMNi/ 

Why Ramadan is a season to travel in the Middle East: Canberra Times

We’re just about at the end of Ramadan – the Islamic month of prayer, fasting and reflection – with Eid forecast for later this week, and my story about best countries to experience Ramadan as a traveller.

It’s a chance to wander back in my mind about nights spent by the Nile, tables laden with small dishes of deliciousness, the ornate lanterns, song and shisha until first light.

Read the story here.

In a piece of dire timing that I’ve come to expect writing about travel in the Middle East, it was published in the Canberra Times and the ACM network of rural newspapers across Australia on the same day the US and Israel started bombing Iran. So while most are trying to flee the Middle East, I tried to convey that (when it’s safe!) far from a season to avoid, for the traveller, Ramadan can breach the divide between tourist and guide, between Muslim and non-Muslim, between them and us.

And, surely, that is needed now, more than ever?

Have you spent Ramadan in a predominantly Muslim country? Any favourites? For those who know me well, my bias toward Egypt is clear (but, as I argue in the piece, well founded). And a friend of mine based in Doha, Qatar, says she finds it’s absolutely the season for networking! While iftar, the meal breaking the fast at sunset is a place to gather and eat, it’s also become a place to do business. Whether doing deals is in the spirit of Ramadan is to be argued, it’s undeniable iftar is a time of togetherness.

Walking, wine and wombats: Tasmania’s lake lodge you need to visit; Australia’s best cellar doors & save on Swiss rail passes

In Tasmania’s Central Highlands, in Australia’s deepest lake, that’s where we’re all going this week, for walking, wine and wombats at Pumphouse Point.

Stuck at the desk? You can still come along to Tasmania via our latest episode of The World Awaits travel podcast. Jump on the pod to hear this week’s chat, (which I recorded while sitting on the floor of the business centre at Niyama Private Islands in the Maldives, while my co-host Kirstie Bedford was packing for Athens. If you’re going to be in a business centre anywhere, I thoroughly recommend this one, because you can look at at a turquoise lagoon in the Dhaalu Atoll while you’re working)

Listen via  Apple Podcasts
Spotify
or via our website https://theworldawaits.au

Set in the glacial Lake St Clair, the lake lodge has recently opened its new Retreats, beautiful cocoons amidst the remote wilderness. The central highlands also a hub for walkers, wine and wombats; https://lnkd.in/gpia2S9N

Also, leading wine reviewer the Halliday Wine Companion reveals Australia’s top cellar door to put on your travel list https://lnkd.in/gVXNehpf and we’re sharing some great tips to save when travelling around Switzerland on its Swiss Rail Pass, https://lnkd.in/gAwp-_9p

And a spot of trivia; what do you think is the most expensive thing left in Brisbane Airport’s Lost & Found? Lloyds Auctions recently put all the items under the hammer, including one pretty surprising, pretty pricey item that would be hard to forget…

Shortlisted for Australian Travel Writer of the Year 2025

I’m very, very pleased to announce that I’ve been shortlisted again for Travel Writer of the Year in the Australian Society of Travel Writers 2025 awards!

I titled my collection of three features The Underrated and the Understated, reporting on a train journey in southern Spain, AlUla in Saudi Arabia and Oman (that’s me, stopping to smell the roses, after being trapped in flooded Dubai on the way to that mountain of fragrance).

Thanks to ASTW and to the companies who continue to support travel journalism, including InnTravel, Saudi Tourism, Emirates, Shangri-La Muscat in Oman and Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar, and their PR representatives

And thanks also to the editors at the Traveller section of the Sydney Morning Herald and The Age newspapers and Luxury Escapes’ Dream magazine, who commission features from these adventures, which sometimes (Ok, often) slip away from the conventional path.

The competition is daunting – my friends Justin Meneguzzi and Kate Henessey complete the trio shortlisted for the TWOTY (best acronym, right?) Luckily, they are both great humans as well as extremely talented writers.

@hh_510 thank you so much, once again, for this photo from Al Jebel Al Akhdar It’s one of my favourite travel photos.

Mainland, not mainstream: hotel review Mandarin Oriental Costa Navarino: Sydney Morning Herald

The blue eye dangles from my key ring as I drive south from Athens. The mati, as the amulet is known in Greece, wards off envy and jealousy.

Almost four hours later, I’ve driven across the much overlooked, history-making Peloponnese peninsula and, pulling my little rental car in to the Mandarin Oriental Costa Navarino’s porte cochere, the view is initially underwhelming. But stepping out of the blinding sun, I realise we’re on a hilltop, and walking into the open-air lobby reveals a perch worthy of a goddess.

I recently had the chance to review the Mandarin Oriental’s first foray into Greece and guess what, it’s not on an island.

To read my story in the Sydney Morning Herald and The Age newspaper’s Traveller section, click here:

https://www.smh.com.au/traveller/inspiration/forget-the-greek-islands-paradise-exists-here-on-greece-s-mainland-20250321-p5lle7.html

Train travel through Greece & Bulgaria with Eurail

Dream assignment: train travel through Greece and Bulgaria with the sole purpose to eat, think and travel deeply and slowly.

This journey started in Athens and ended in Ploviv, Bulgaria, with European rail pass company Eurail. With chef Ella Mittas and photographer Sarah Pannell, no mouthful went uninspected or undocumented. Also with us on the trip was videographer Paulo Magalhães , who has just released the trailer for his upcoming documentary about the furthest corner of eastern Europe. We visited restaurants, farms, vineyards, villages and the primary and secondary towns of the neighbouring countries.

The short for Paulo’s upcoming documentary is now out, and I love it! To keep the story going, Ella cooked a menu inspired by the journey for a group of media here in Melbourne at Julie restaurant in Abbotsford Convent  last week, using trahana, a fermented grain and yogurt and a fabulous moussaka, which as its own, fascinating backstory.

You can also get a taste of our travels from my recent story for adventure.com https://adventure.com/off-the-eaten-path-slow-food-bulgaria/

The best things to do in Sofia, Bulgaria

For streets paved with gold, what to eat and 7000 years of history, I give you my list of the best things to do in Sofia, Bulgaria.

Crossing the border from Greece, I exchange my euros for a fistful of Bulgarian lev, which I’ll spend gleefully on banitsa, a flaky breakfast pastry that in its simplest form is filo stuffed with eggs, feta and yoghurt. You might have tried bougatsa, the custard-filled Greek pastry born in Thessaloniki – it’s just one of many demonstrations that these two countries share an ancient past, evolving to add their own twist. Isn’t it funny that when we think of Greece, we think of western Europe and all its familiarity, but just cross the border and eastern Europe is a whole different approach for travellers. Is it safe? Is it poor? Is it interesting?

Take a look at my latest feature for the Traveller section of the Sydney Morning Herald and The Age newspapers to see if I’ve answered all these questions. I can recommend a great little art hotel in the embassy district to make your base, thoroughly recommend Bulgaria’s potent distilled fruit spirit, rakia, centuries-old churches and mosques, hundred-year-old markets and maybe you’ll also fall in love with the jaunty yellow trams that cross Sofia. The last time I visited Bulgaria, it was still shadowed by its Soviet past, so it’s fascinating to see how it tells its Communist story, from 1944 to 1989, to a new generation of travellers – see redflatsofia.com

And for disclosure, I travelled to Bulgaria by train from Greece as a guest of Eurail. From Athens, I travelled north to Greece’s second city, Thessaloniki, and then across the border to Sofia and onward to Plovdiv, using the European rail pass, Eurail.  See eurail.com

https://www.smh.com.au/traveller/inspiration/nine-must-do-highlights-of-sofia-bulgaria-20250214-p5lc49.html

And for a deep dive into Bulgaria’s food scene, you can read my piece written for Adventure.com , see https://adventure.com/off-the-eaten-path-slow-food-bulgaria/

And if you’re heading to Thessaloniki, I’ve written a ‘best of’ for that awesome city, as well – see https://globalsalsa.com/best-things-to-do-in-thessaloniki-greece/

Global Salsa

Well, you’ve scrolled this far. What do you think? Drop me a line, I’d love to hear from you.

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